Though Zacualpan appears dusty, it’s a proud and well-knit community with its church, post office, police station and essential services, clustered around the central plaza. Shopkeepers and homeowners water down and sweep the sidewalks and streets every morning. There are many colorful festivals, often with gaily decorated floats drawn by tractors.

Wednesday is market day in Zacualpan. It’s a street market, running along the north side of the soccer field. Here you’ll find many basic necessities except meat and poultry: clothing, kitchen implements, tools, replacement burners for your gas stove, fresh fruit and vegetables, herbal medicines for every ailment  as well as pirated CD’s. There are a few little restaurants set up in the street, and at the entrance is a chicharrón concession: pork cracklings cooked in a huge tub of boiling oil over a wood fire.

People of all ages shop in the market, and despite the crowding and jostling, everyone is polite and friendly even though you may be a very obvious foreigner, to judge from your clothing and digital camera, if nothing else. You’ll find yourself welcome at all the stands in the market, even if you have no intention of buying anything.